Rami Kadi Draws on the American West for FW27 Couture
Rami Kadi has built his Fall/Winter 2027 couture collection around new textile treatments developed in his Beirut atelier, using craft traditions associated with the American West as a starting point for couture construction. Titled Bataille Dorée, the 40-look collection examines the contrast between rugged handmade references and the precision required to reproduce them at couture level.
Texture defines the collection, drawing from a craft tradition shaped by utility, adaptation and handwork. Materials associated with frontier clothing, such as leather, hair, woven fibres and applied decoration, were originally valued for their practicality before becoming part of fashion’s visual vocabulary. Kadi approaches these elements through couture rather than costume, translating their construction methods into pony hair applications, mixed surfaces and crochet-inspired embroidery.
Fringe provides one of the clearest examples of this transformation. Long associated with Western dress, the technique moves from its traditional textile context into a more elaborate couture treatment through long beaded compositions, crystal, semi-precious stone and metal elements. Some interpretations continue beyond the garments into accessories, including sculptural earrings, rings and Western-inspired boots developed with the same materials and finishes.
For this collection, Kadi reduces his colour range to give greater prominence to the surfaces themselves. Chocolate brown, warm taupe, almond buff, oyster white and grey-green create a muted foundation, while blackberry wine introduces a deeper contrast. The restrained palette shifts attention towards texture, construction and the variation of materials.
The final bridal look brings together the collection’s opposing references. A white satin gown is covered with asymmetrical crochet-inspired embroidery, transparent Swarovski crystals and white threadwork before extending into a fully embroidered train and matching veil. It concludes a collection where traditional craft techniques are not reproduced as historical references, but rebuilt through the precision of couture.