The Burberry Trench Coat’s Century-Long Evolution Comes to the V&A
Originally designed for protection and practicality, the trench coat has been repeatedly reinterpreted over the past century, moving between military dress, everyday outerwear and fashion collections without losing its essential structure. Burberry played a central role in its development: Thomas Burberry developed cotton gabardine in 1879 and patented it in 1888, giving the house the weather-resistant fabric that would become the foundation of the trench coat.
To mark Burberry's 170th anniversary, the V&A and Burberry will present The Burberry Trench: Crafting an Icon, a free display at V&A South Kensington. Bringing together material from the Burberry Archive and the V&A collection, the exhibition will trace the coat's development from functional garment to a recurring presence in fashion.
The trench emerged from a period when advances in textile technology were reshaping outerwear. Gabardine offered a tightly woven fabric that was lightweight, durable and weather-resistant while remaining breathable — qualities that established Burberry's reputation in protective clothing and later brought military commissions.
Through the early twentieth century, the coat evolved from military necessity into a recognisable civilian garment. Details such as the storm flap, epaulettes, D-rings and belted construction were originally functional, built for protection in demanding conditions. Over time, they became part of the coat's visual identity, retaining their practical origins while taking on wider cultural meaning.
The exhibition will examine these technical details, from the hand-finished collar and detachable throat latch to the House Check lining, while also exploring how the trench has been reinterpreted through fashion, with nineteen runway looks on display from former Chief Creative Officer Christopher Bailey and current Chief Creative Officer Daniel Lee.
The Burberry Trench: Crafting an Icon runs at V&A South Kensington from 21 September 2026 to 3 January 2027.
